Friday, March 11, 2011

Of chives and risotto

My research for the next kitchen to intern in has brought me to a restaurant downtown. I had noticed the window several times before but it was always closed, so I set a date with my girlfriend to check it out for lunch. The owner is a Swiss lady and the kitchen seemed small but promising. When we got there we were greeted by the server and seated in the spacious, luminous room. I immediately liked the vibe of the place. I ordered ribs and my girlfriend a risotto with figatelli, a Corsican sausage. We were served rapidly and as soon as I got my plate I winced. There was pork (not ribs, by belly), sweet potatoes and leeks. Though it did not look like what I expected, that was fine. What stood out for me were the chives sprinkled over the plate: they were chopped irregularly, meaning to say some were longer than others. After spending hours over the last few months perfecting my chive and shallot-chopping, I had a moment of indignation, for lack of a better word (it was not revulsion, nor bitterness), followed by a resignation that my view of food served in restaurants (as opposed to homes) was forever altered. Those tiny green bits were like so many mini-Proustian madeleines for me, bringing back hours of concentrated effort in various kitchens spread across Marseille.
The rest of my food was fine, I finished it all, but would never serve such a plate in my own restaurant, no matter how modest the place. As for my girlfriend’s order… What was placed before her was a dish of rice (not Arborio) mixed with a bunch of vegetables and rawish sausage. Simply put, it was not good. Now she and I have had several discussions regarding risotto in the past, starting with my dismay at the French habit of adding cream to it (unlike the Italian way where the starch from the rice combined with the stock and wine is what produces the unctuousness). So when the server asked us how our food was, I refrained from saying that my chives were chopped irregularly, but my friend ventured to say that her food was good (lie) but that it was not a risotto. The server immediately headed to the open kitchen to tell the chef, a skinny woman with a huge head of frizzy hair, at which point we heard some loud voices saying that the food was how it was meant to be or something to that effect. It appeared that the chef was miffed by our feedback and screamed at our waiter who from then on ignored us completely. Welcome to the food industry in France, where the chef is always right…

2 comments:

  1. I always knew you loved food, but not this much. Have you read any of Bourdain's book? My Bloody Valentine seems appropriate for you right now, if you haven't picked it up yet. Are the Michelin starred restaurants in Marseilles overflowing? Do you have to do a different restaurant every couple of months? Do you think perhaps you may have been over critical of the chef with the hair? I can only imagine how intense your training is and how meticulous you are taught to be...so it's the passionate food critic in you that interests me; I've just not seen that side before. Was the chef miffed because that is the food culture in France; or because two culinary students were critical of her (I'm assuming years) of experience? What do you think? I am curious to hear your thoughts :)

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  2. I guess that's a side of me that did not have an outlet for expression during college years in Manila (not to demean Cititop or Full House).
    I've read Bourdain's "Kitchen Confidential" which I loved... have to get a hand on his other books.
    Have you read "Heat" by Bill Buford? Also very good, an account of his experience with Mario Batali.
    And no, Marseille is far from overflowing with starred restaurants... quite the contrary. It has a handful of single-starred restaurants, no two stars and one three star.
    As for the the chef with the big hair, it turns out she was a replacement chef with the real chef was out sick... so yes, I was probably overly critical, but I use the same yardstick with others as I use for myself... what can I say!
    I'm not sure why the replacement chef was so upset, my friend and I were definitely surprised by her reaction.
    I for one am always very appreciative of feedback, thank you Joy!

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