Le dimanche

Okay, we've been jealously eyeing the beach from the window of our new pad, but the wind started howling so strong that Sara and I preferred to wait till it died down a bit before venturing too near the sand. So, after endless running errands (internet, bank, landlord, etc) and dodging poo on the sidewalk, we decided to take it easy and chill out at home, fully admiring the cerulean sky and ocean while keeping out eyeballs safe.
I have to say that I am somewhat traumatized by Sundays in Europe; more than once have I been caught with a diaper or other emergency necessitating a purchase (or maybe a craving for sushi) only to be faced with frustration at streets of shuttered shop facades. Today was no exception - Sara and I ventured downtown to try to change American currency to no avail. Tonight (since we are not equipped in the kitchen) I wanted to try one of the restaurants recommended by Alexander Lobrano (NY Times magazine, 7 July 2010) and they are all closed!

First impressions

It's almost been a week since I landed in Marseille. The sun has shone bright trough and through, except for a refreshing thunderstorm overnight last week. Marseille seems bigger than I expected it to feel. Even though it is the second largest city in France (arguably Lyon is the third), I just assumed that it would feel rather provincial, especially after Manhattan. On the contrary, I was surprised by a vibrancy and urbanity that immediately appealed to my city girl predilections.
There seems to be a lot of things going on in this town, a lot of people coming through, a mobile and worldly population which is what makes me the most comfortable. What's more, the people I have met, with few exceptions, namely at the hip Colette store in Aix-en-Provence, have been exceptionally warm and helpful.
Sara and I have been occupying a two-bedroom apartment left vacant by the friend of my ex-husband's friend. The apartment is in apparently a nicer part of town, meaning to say more residential, with less night-time riff-raff and better public schools. That is why I proceeded to look for an apartment in the same neighborhood. We are walking distance from the beach and a lovely edge of water park. Downtown, where most of the action takes place, is about a 5 minute bus ride away or fifteen minute walk, not unlike the distance from Tudor City Place to Union Square for example (if there is no traffic and you are a brisk walker).
The one thing that's gotten to me is the dog shit on the sidewalks. Sadly, the French do not scoop after their canine friends. So far I have had no unpleasant incidents but it is a bit of an added stress to have to look out for every step as well as that of your child's.
I had also forgotten how much the French love to sunbathe topless. I had to confirm to Sara that there was nothing wrong with it and was relieved when she didn't ask me why I didn't remove my bikini top.